BUSINESS MEETS CHIC with SUBVERSIVE 70s SUITS

A WOMAN'S WAR 

The 1970’s was a time of great social change for women: feminism, bubbling under the surface of society – explicitly as well as subversively – for decades, finally started to gain traction amongst the masses; the ‘shockingly’ revolutionary magazine, Cosmopolitan, was founded, publishing daring content aimed at women; and women, once seen as the traditional homemakers, were becoming slowly integrated into the professional workplace. Society and gender roles were beginning to slowly shift, with new laws and being declared to protect women and recognise their rights. Marriage rates began to decline, divorce rates rose, and a new acceptance of cohabitation was instilled. Women working became the norm, finally gaining a much-desired status of independence both financially and socially.

'DUDE LOOKS LIKE a LADY'

Due to the swift emergence of women in professional environments where they had been scarce before, there was little available when it came to workwear. As the androgynous look was already a running theme throughout the decade, a quick solution was found: dress like men. Women adopted the uniform of trousers, shirts, and jackets to fit into the male-dominated work environment, styling themselves with feminine flourishes such as silk and pussy-bow blouses, wide trousers, and pointed-toe boots. Contemporary fashion met a traditional setting, resulting in the iconic 70’s suit. This androgynous look was further popularised in films such as Woody Allen’s ‘Annie Hall’. The concept of ‘Dressing for Success’ was thoroughly instilled and has remained ever since. It could be said that women’s hopes of equality were manifested through dress – perhaps if they could look like men, they could be afforded the same rights and privileges as them?

DISCO VIBES 

This summer, audacious prints have been an eye-catching theme for suits, honouring and paying homage to the classic disco scene. Bright shirts, platform boots, chunky chains and polyester suits are motifs commonly associated with the era. Influential design houses such as Gucci and Halston were early pioneers. Halpern sent a flared, swirl patterned suit with matching shoes down the runway, whilst Erdem stuck to their distinct look, adding a floral twist with a platform sandal and sharp, straight collar. 16 Arlington combined 70’s disco influences with the classic suit to create a metallic, slit leg style with a matching bow sitting beneath a signature wide collar.

A COUTURE COMBINATION

The trousers were a newcomer to women's 70s wardrobes, encouraged by increased leisure time and an absence of casual wear for women. They began to penetrate couture collections in the '70s, following Yves Saint Laurent’s iconic ‘Le Smoking’ image in 1966, exhibiting a woman wearing a tuxedo. Here, stylish sophistication met daytime dressing, a look and theme that has been emulated by designers such as Ralph Lauren and Georgio Armani. Instigating a trend of masculine tailored garments for women, Yves Saint Laurent was pivotal in defining powerful but chic workwear for women.