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A staple in nearly every woman’s wardrobe, the trouser is a garment with a wide variety of styles, cuts, and types. In our previous article, we covered the different trouser lengths available over the years; in this three-parter, we will discuss trouser types with reference to the history of each, hopefully providing you with some vintage styling inspiration along the way!
Moving alphabetically through the various unique styles of trouser, part three of this three-part series focuses on: jeans, ever popular, and always in fashion; the radical jumpsuit; loose and comfy palazzo trousers; suit trousers; and stirrup trousers.
JEANS
The classic jeans style is called 5 pockets due to the two pockets at the back, the two at the front and a mini pocket just above the right-hand front pocket, added to the original design in 1890 for the purpose of storing a watch or some coins. During the 1950s, jeans became popular amongst the younger generations due to the influence of cinema and rock ‘n’ roll. Films such as Rebel without a Cause or The Wild One garnered notable attention for this trouser style by having their respective actors, James Dean and Marlon Brando, rock blue jeans in front of the camera. Nowadays, jeans can be found in a range of different colours, cuts, and styles, simple or with embellishments, making them one of the most versatile garments to own.
JUMPSUITS
PALAZZO TROUSERS
Palazzo trouser are extreme wide-legged trousers that flare out from the waist down. The history of the palazzo trouser can be dated back to the 1930s, when women were constricted by the expectation to wear dresses and skirts. A precursor to the palazzo trouser was the beach pyjama, popular during the 1920s and 1930s. Coco Chanel popularised the style further after spending some time in the French Riviera, where women frequently wore wide-legged trousers made of light, silky fabrics over their bathing suits. Due to their loose fit, palazzo trousers are in fact popular attire for the summer months, as lightweight, flowing fabrics are used to create a breathable effect.
SUIT TROUSERS OR PANTSUITS
Is there an attire that empowers women more than a trouser suit? Borrowed from men’s wardrobes, the trouser suit has seen a steep escalation in use since the 1960s, when women fought by means of fashion to gather the same rights as their male counterparts. Even though female emancipation is still an ongoing fight, suit trousers are slowly turning into a more common attire for empowered women both in and out of business, filling the distorted gap between the genders. Let us be reminded, though, that females wearing trouser suits can receive negative comments, in the same way that the famous ‘Le Smoking’ by Yves Saint Lauren in 1966 created a strong negative response in his time, with women prevented from wearing trousers on the US senate floor until 1993.
STIRRUP TROUSERS
Stirrup trousers are full-length and tight fitting, extending with a band or strap to be worn under the arch of the foot to hold the trouser legs in place. Often associated with jodhpurs and horse riding in the early 1900s, they have gone in and out of fashion over the years, having a particularly long run of popularity throughout the 80s and 90s. From black to bright, bold disco colours, stirrup trousers are usually made of stretch fabrics, making them ideal for leisurewear. Their use originated amongst horse riders at the beginning of the 1900s, when women were fighting not only for their right to vote, but also for their right to ride in a fully seated position, as opposed to sitting side-saddle.
As we have seen, it’s possible to link the history of each trouser style to the history of women and their fight for emancipation and liberty from prejudices and patriarchal structures. This history, one consisting of the breaking down of physical, social, and mental restrictions, represents how far women have come on their journey for equality between the sexes, and indicates the power of fashion in shaping these social justice campaigns.
